Pattaya Info CD

THAI CUSTOMS :

This section will help you understand certain practices and attitudes of Thai people in Pattaya. We give you just a brief introduction here and hope you will want to know more, see book list for further reading. 90% of the Thai population are practicing Buddhists, but other faiths are accepted and respected, see Places of Worship. The teachings of Buddhism are compatible with most other religions. Religion is the very heart of Thai culture, it gives life to all the traditions, social systems, art and literature of the nation. On a hill overlooking Pattaya bay, at the highest point, you will see a huge golden statue of the Buddha, set up as a reminder of his teaching, which is the most important element in Thai religious life. If you drive up to enjoy the viewpoint, you will pass shrines with four‑faced Brahma statues, trees with colored ribbons and on the flight of steps near the top are fortunetellers and vendors of good luck charms. What are these strange cultural practices and how do they fit in with Buddhism? They are vestiges of Brahmanism (the early form of Hinduism) and Animism (a folk religion with belief in spirits). These elements have been absorbed in varying degrees into the Buddhism practiced in Thailand. You will be reminded of them constantly when living in Pattaya.

LIFE OF THE BUDDHA

In the sixth century BC, in Nepal, a Hindu Prince Siddhartha Gautama was born who was destined to become a Buddha or 'enlightened one'. At the age of 29, he left the life of luxury in the palace to become an ascetic. He was seeking to discover why man must suffer, die, and be reborn to repeat the cycle again and again (for Hindus believe in reincarnation). Enlightenment came six years later. The Buddha as he was known thereafter had reached the highest point of spirituality and could have gone straight to Nirvana. He chose instead to stay and teach his doctrine, stressing to his followers that he was not a god, but a teacher. He finally passed to Nirvana at the age of 80 in 543 BC. Thai calendars are reckoned from that date so you will see the year 2540 used for 1997.

TEACHING OF THE BUDDHA

The Buddha's teachings known as the Four Noble Truths focus on suffering, how to analyze what causes it and eliminate those causes by following the Eightfold Path. This is a code of behavior covering basic morality and development of wisdom, concentration and meditation. Basically, we suffer because we are never content, and always want something else out of life. We also fool ourselves that, time can stand still and happiness is the norm, whereas just the opposite is true. You will notice how Thais are usually good at 'going with the flow'. They are fun loving people who rise above the problems of life with 'mai pen rai 'never mind', as their password, accepting situations and not letting things get them down. You will also see that they avoid extremes. The Buddha taught that the Middle Way was the right one to pursue in life. This teaching evolved from his experience of the luxurious life of a Hindu prince, followed by the austerity of rigorous fasting, in his initial search for enlightenment.

The Five Precepts (somewhat like The Ten Commandments) instruct Buddhists not to destroy life, steal, commit adultery, tell lies, or drink alcohol. They are chanted using language from ancient texts on religious occasions.

Like Christianity which has Catholic and Protestant believers, Buddhism has two main divisions (further divided into sects): Mahayana Buddhism, which has enlightened beings like saints, to 'show them the way', and Theravada Buddhism, which is much simpler and could be described as 'do it yourself salvation'. This is the Buddhism practiced by most Thai people and described here.

The Triple Gem ‑ Respect for the Buddha and his Teaching. You will see that Thais bow their heads to the ground 3 times in reverence in a Wat (temple) and offer incense sticks, candles and lotus blossoms in threes. This symbolizes their 'taking refuge' in the Triple Gem: The Buddha, the Dhamma (his teachings) and the Sangha (the community of Monks). Buddhists believe in reincarnation, and that each person's karma (actions in past and present lives) determines their fate, 'Tham boon dai boon, tham chua dai chua, 'Do good and receive good, do evil and that is what you will get, says the Thai proverb.

Making Merit ‑ Tham boon. You will hear Thai people referring to 'boon' or merit. Why is it important to them? It has got to be top priority if they want to move towards enlightenment and improve their lot. Here is how: lead a good life, observe the 5 precepts, be kind, give to the poor, offer food to monks on their early morning round, and donate to the temple. Highest merit points go to those who become a monk or a nun. You can transfer merit to someone else if that is your wish. Thai Buddhists also make merit by visiting the temple on special holidays, see Festivals, their birthday, or any important anniversary. There is no special day for attendance (such as Sunday for Christians). The largest example of making merit you will see in the Pattaya area is an amazing private teak temple being constructed by the owner of Mercedes‑Benz in Thailand beside the beach at Wong Amat (N. Pattaya). It is the size of a cathedral, covered with wonderful carved statues depicting folk stories of Asian nations.

Wats ‑ Buddhist temples are the centers of religious life. You will notice how beautifully they are built and skillfully decorated. Hindu gods may not have a place in Buddhist philosophy, but you will see them in temple murals depicting stories about the Buddha and in ornamental motifs on temples. The Wat is also the center of the community, especially in rural districts as the school is often located there, and meeting halls used. You are welcome to visit, but expected to show proper respect in conduct and dress (skimpy clothing or beachwear are not suitable). Before you enter the main chapel of the temple (the Bot) remove your shoes. It is usual to sit on the floor in front of the altar area which has Buddha statues on and around it. Be careful not to point your feet towards any of these, best to kneel with legs to one side. The Buddha reached enlightenment in meditation under a Bo tree, so it is considered sacred and you will usually find one planted somewhere in the temple compound. (It has a distinctive teardrop shaped leaf and is often swathed with colored sashes.)

The wheel motif often used in temple boundary walls symbolizes the Buddha's teaching ‑ he set the 'Wheel of the Law' rolling.

Monks ‑ They live in small houses (Kuti) in the Wat compound, wear saffron robes, bare or sandals, and have shaven eyebrows and heads. Having accepted a life of poverty their only possessions are their robes, food bowl, bag, an oval fan and umbrella. On rare occasions, you will see them in a field by the roadside having set up camp with mosquito net attached to this umbrella. You will often see them around in the streets. If you are up at dawn, you will see monks everywhere, going through the streets on foot with their metal bowls to receive food from anyone who wishes to make merit. You too, can do this. Observe how Thais are doing it first.

You will notice that a woman may not give directly into a monk's hand. A monk must never touch a woman, so give them plenty of space if you walk past them. On public transport seats either right at the back, or the front of the bus is kept for any monk who boards, so a woman would be allocated a seat elsewhere to avoid any physical contact, which is strictly forbidden. On a baht bus, they usually sit in front with the driver.

Food offerings should be placed directly in the bowl, other items should be put down (on a cloth usually) for him to pick up. Monks must finish their meal by noon and fast until the next morning, but they can still drink liquids. This is in line with the Buddha's teaching, to follow the 'Middle Way' of restraint, but not austerity. Besides the food offerings, they receive incense sticks, candles, flowers and even cigarettes. Monks spend much time meditating, chanting and instructing short‑term monks in the 227 rules of the Sangha (community). Most young men over the age of 20 enter the monkshood for a short period, often at the beginning on Buddhist Lent in July. It is viewed like a religious retreat, and you may hear about someone getting time off work for this. They are free to leave at any time or return again. About a quarter of the monks in Thailand stay for life. Sometimes you will see young boys dressed in monk's robes. They are being educated in the Wat and often come from poor families. Two ceremonies take place before ordination, usually in the candidate's home or in the Sala (meeting pavilion) of the Wat. Monks from the novice’s temple and ‘Sukhwan Naak’ perform ‘Sawat Mon’ by a Brahman priest. This is an example of the inter‑mingling of Buddhist and Brahman practices.

Those early kings of Thailand back in Sukhothai times found that there were no Buddhist ceremonies for coronations, weddings, funerals and the like. So they followed the old Brahman practices to suit the occasion, and this is still the case today. Buddhist blessing rituals by monks often precede Brahman ceremonies. There is no conflict. Everyone takes Brahmanism, especially in the art of astrology, very seriously from royalty and politicians to fishermen and rice farmers.

Blessings ‑ The Brahman astrologers calculate which day would be auspicious to; get married, start a business, lay a foundation stone, build a property, or move a house, and then Buddhist monks are invited to perform the ceremony of blessing. Even multinational companies along the Eastern Seaboard do not neglect these procedures. You may be invited to attend one of these ceremonies. You should dress modestly, take along an envelope with some money as a gift, and observe how Thai people behave and follow suit. On the morning of the appointed day, a number of monks, usually nine, arrive. They circle a thread around the whole area to be blessed, then carry out the ceremony from a raised platform with chanting, finishing by sprinkling special water on the participants. There then follows a feast for the monks that confers merit on the host after which the people eat.

Spirit Houses and Spirit Trees ‑ In the grounds of most buildings, you will see a little house set up on a post, decorated with garlands or even flashing Christmas tree lights. It is a spirit house, and has been put up by the owner (set up with a ceremony by a Brahman priest) for the 'Lord of the Land' and any restless spirits in the vicinity. Trees swathed with colored sashes (there is a fine example in the middle of the road in Naklua, just north of Pattaya) arc also considered to have spirits residing there. Every day food and water, flowers ‑and incense sticks are offered so the spirits will not make trouble and the 'Lord of the Land' (as Brahma is popularly called) will bring good luck to those concerned.

The Main Trinity of Hindu Gods ‑ Brahma, the Creator is one Hindu god that you will see everywhere. Once you have identified his statue with four faces, you will spot him seated in an elaborate shrine at hotels (even prestigious, top international ones) and many other sites, such as hospitals and petrol stations. His shrine is tended carefully with fresh flowers daily to bring good luck. When you see Thai classical dance performed, (at restaurants like Ruen Thai in Pattaya), they usually show scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the great Hindu epic the Ramayana. The hero Rama can be identified with his huntsman’s bow. With the help of the white monkey, Hanuman, he overcomes the forces of evil to win back his bride who has been stolen away. Rama was an avatar of the Hindu God Vishnu, the Preserver and Rama is the name chosen by the present Chakri Dynasty for their kings. Traditionally, Vishnu's mount is a garuda (eagle‑man). You will see this used as a royal cipher on certain banks and businesses enjoying royal patronage. It is also on the Kin marker stones on Highway 3 (a King's highway). The last of the main trinity of Hindu gods is Shiva, the Destroyer. You will see him represented as a lingam, a phallic symbol (covered in gold leaf) in a shrine at the Koh Loi temple at Sriracha, 30 km north of Pattaya. Sometimes amulet vendors sell phallic lucky charms.

Good Luck Charms ‑ Thai people often wear amulets around the neck (usually a little Buddha replica). They are sold in jewelry shops, and by fortunetellers whom you will find at temples, such as the one beside the huge golden Buddha above Pattaya. Some Thai men are elaborately tattooed also, as a protection against evil spirits. Garlands hung in the car are for the same purpose.

Life is free and easy in Pattaya but certain rules of Thai etiquette still apply and whatever else you may slip up on, do get it right with the two vital elements of Thai culture: Buddhism and the Monarchy.

• Show proper respect for Buddha statues by not touching them, climbing on them for photos, or pointing your feet in their direction when seated.

Greetings ‑ The Wai is the Thai greeting that is also used as juniors should give a gesture of thanks to elders first. The hands are placed palms together as in prayer and the head makes a bow. The deeper the bow and higher the hands, the greater is the respect shown. A Wai from a person of lowly status, (e.g. someone serving you) need not be returned if this makes you feel uncomfortable, a smile and a nod will bridge the gap. The word of greeting or farewell is 'Sawadee' followed by the courtesy word 'ka' if you are a woman 'and 'krap' if a man. Many educated Thais will thrust out a hand to a Westerner to give a firm handshake.

Smile ‑ The Thai smile is world famous, and is one of the best things about life here. Do it the Thai way for a friendly and positive start. Sadly there are a few people in Pattaya these days, notably shop assistants, who look at you blankly. Some of the foreign visitor's manners seem to have rubbed off on them. Do not be put off, keep smiling! There are a hundred varieties to suit the occasion, not all happy ones, as Thais also smile when under emotional stress or upset. Do not be fooled, a smile can be useful in many delicate situations, as it is used as an apology as well. Despite his rueful grin, that baht bus driver can be truly sorry he backed into your car. Do not punch him on the nose or yell at him!

Keep Cool ‑ It is very bad manners to lose your temper, and no Thai will respect you for it. You gain nothing by becoming more assertive and getting angry, in fact, you will find that it is counter‑productive, you will be considered to have lost face.

Loss of Face ‑ This is an awful disgrace for a Thai. So it is best to avoid head on confrontations and in any dispute make sure there is a compromise solution available, a bridge for your opponent to retreat across without losing face. You will get results that way, and avoid forcing a humiliating climb‑down, which in an extreme case could turn someone vindictive.

Use a Third Party ‑ If you have employees and a problem arises concerning their behaviour eg punctuality. Solve it the Thai way, by asking his friend to mention it to him, the person in question will not have to lose face and can rectify the situation.

Gifts ‑ Birthdays are special occasions for celebration and a present is always appreciated. Do get it gift wrapped with ribbons and bows, as appearances are important here, and it adds to the excitement. You may be surprised when they don't open your present in front of you. This is a Thai custom, in case any spontaneous reaction is inappropriate. Money is usually given for weddings, house blessings, ordination parties etc, the amount reflecting the giver's status, which Westerners find hard to judge. Place your chosen amount in an envelope that contains your name.

Eating ‑ There is no shortage of opportunities for eating anywhere in Thailand and Pattaya is no exception! It is not the Thai custom to go 'Dutch Treat' and share the bill. Usually the senior person or the one who invited the others pays. Among friends one takes turns to treat the others. Use a spoon for eating Thai food, and a fork to load it. Chopsticks are sometimes used for noodles. Some North Eastern dishes are correctly eaten with fingers only, and that is the easiest way to tackle prawns and spare‑ribs.

Body Language ‑ Thais are very tolerant of foreigners, they suppose we do not know any better, and let's hope we do not unwittingly offend them too often. Basic common sense, general politeness, and observing the code of behavior of local people should keep you on the right track.

‑Remove your shoes before entering a house. ‑Heads are high and feet are low so:

‑Don't ever use your foot to point at somebody or anything, as Thais consider it the basest part of the body, both literally and figuratively and it is very insulting. ‑Do not touch anyone's head (exceptions you will notice are for hairdressers and medical services). Inferiors will generally try to keep their heads lower than those of higher status and bobbing down if necessary.

‑Elders are given higher status than juniors. Thai people like to know who is older or younger, so do not be surprised if they ask your age ‑ or how much you earn. It is just showing interest and not considered impolite. Evasive answers are acceptable.

‑Thais in Pattaya are more relaxed than their country cousins, but they are still very modest by western standards. There is a subtle difference in the postural behavior of Thais in rural areas and those in Pattaya where cosmopolitan influences are creeping in. So you can relax a bit. Young Thai couples here are now seen holding hands or seated lounging with crossed legs ‑ which is still not proper in the villages. There they sit with knees together, and in public men and women do not touch each other.

Observations on Thai Relationships - There are cultural elements, which are not easy to understand at first. Sexual pleasures are viewed differently in The East. They have been compared to the joys of dining out and indulging in various types of cuisine. Visiting massage parlors with extra services implied is common practice for many Thai males. So prostitution does not have the same degree of social stigma here that it has in the West and sexual deviancies do not cause raised eyebrows. There is also more tolerance towards a man having 'minor wives' or mistresses. It has been said that western attitudes are hypocritical as these things go on just the same in our countries.

Our value systems certainly are different, and we should be aware of this in trying to understand the Thai perspective, especially 'in Pattaya. The reality for the expatriate resident is that you do see Western men with young Thai women or boys walking along the street together, in restaurants or supermarkets. There are plenty of bars around town with girls serving drinks who can be 'bought out' by customers and in the side streets (mostly downtown at the end of Beach Road in an area known as 'The Strip') there are entertainment places with 'go‑go dancers' and 'exotic' shows. Many of the prostitutes are village girls from the much poorer area of the Northeast, earning money to settle family debts (it is a sad situation). Thai youngsters have heavy duties to their parents, and a pretty daughter sent on the streets, can solve her family's money problems. She may earn in one night what her father could earn in a month.